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        <title>SilverWing Owners Group Members Forum - Braking System</title>
        <description>For technical requests regarding the brake system</description>
        <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/list.php?33</link>
        <lastBuildDate>Mon, 06 Sep 2010 10:09:16 -0700</lastBuildDate>
        <generator>Phorum 5.2.8</generator>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7615,7615#msg-7615</guid>
            <title>rear brakes (1 reply)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7615,7615#msg-7615</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ hi i have just brought a 1982 silverwing gl500 I need advice on how to replace rear brake pads i have mehcnical knowledge as rebuilt a 1981 suzuki 250 but am at a loss with this bike i  have got a manual on order but neeed to do this job asap, thanks for any help]]></description>
            <dc:creator>sprog3822</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 31 Jan 2007 19:33:22 -0800</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7541,7541#msg-7541</guid>
            <title>Front brakes are tight (no replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7541,7541#msg-7541</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ They drag too much, front wheeel will not spin freely when off the ground.<br />
Just put new pads on.<br />
This is on an 82 gl500i]]></description>
            <dc:creator>safari</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 25 Nov 2006 17:07:27 -0800</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7277,7277#msg-7277</guid>
            <title>Old Timers: ever rebuilt a master brake cylinder '80 CX500 c (no replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7277,7277#msg-7277</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ OKAY-this is a dead horse. I am sick of this. here it goes the saga continues:<br />
<br />
I am the original owner of my '80 CX-500 custom. I am re-building my master brake cylinder which has a piston that measures 50mm x 13mm.<br />
<br />
I ordered the current rebuild kit from honda.<br />
<br />
The kit contains a piston that measures 55mm x 15mm: this is for a '80 cx-500 custom.<br />
<br />
So I checked with a couple shops to verify their kits....55mm x 15mm<br />
<br />
OKAY  FINE, I HAVE A WEIRD MASTER CYLINDER, SOMEONE AT THE FACTORY SCREWED UP 26 YEARS AGO AND BUILT MY BIKE WRONG.<br />
<br />
So I resign to go on EBAY to find a replacement MC and just rebuild it and I just bought a USED master brake cylinder assembly-which is a P.O.S., all rusted, and gunked up, etc.....and guess WHAT? it is the exact same piston size as what I have.<br />
<br />
Has anyone out there rebuild a 1980 CX500 custom's Master brake Cylinder and run into this screwed up situation?<br />
<br />
I am posting this on multiple boards because I am LIVID and outof my mind with frustration.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>vdotmatrix</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 07 Jul 2006 18:27:49 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7257,7257#msg-7257</guid>
            <title>rear brake squeal (1 reply)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7257,7257#msg-7257</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I feel kinda dumb asking about something that's probably pretty basic, but i'm not a mechanic even though I am fairly mechanically inclined. Anyhow...<br />
<br />
While I had the rear wheel off last week for a new tire to be put on, I decided to go ahead and replace the brake shoes. The old ones looked to be in pretty good condition, but with everything that had to be removed from the bike in order to get the wheel itself off I figured I'd save myself the hassle later and replace them at the same time. Anyway, there was a small amount of squeal from the old shoes the 1st couple of times brakes were applied after sitting overnight, but with the new shoes the squeal is even worse. The drum is in great shape, bike only has 11,000 miles, but i'm wondering if I missed something. I made certain everything was clean before reassembly, and I'm not looking forward to dis-assembling the rear end again to remove the wheel, but something needs to be done.<br />
<br />
What are some possible causes, and their remedies?<br />
<br />
TIA for all replies!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>drknobs</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 06 Jul 2006 09:30:10 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7241,7241#msg-7241</guid>
            <title>Master Brake cylinder different than mine (no replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7241,7241#msg-7241</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I got past the diagrams but now when I finally went to overhaul my MC, the piston in the new kit measure 55mm x 15mm and the old piston measures 50mm x 13mm. <br />
<br />
This is a big bummer because Honda probably won't take these back and I paid $45usd.<br />
<br />
The bike is a 1980 cx-500 custom; I am the original owner. THIS IS THE PART KIT LISTED for my bike at gobinet that I ordered from Honda.<br />
<br />
Does anyone have any ideas?<br />
<br />
The housing has some numbers embossed on the bottom of the housing.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>vdotmatrix</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 23 Jun 2006 04:26:41 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7236,7236#msg-7236</guid>
            <title>Detailed MAster Brake cyclinder diagram (no replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7236,7236#msg-7236</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I have the on-line blow-up of the hydraulic front brake but it really doesn't have the detail I am looking for.<br />
<br />
My cylinder re-build kit came with an extra washer. There is a rubber cup which isn't the one that is on the piston itself that I cannot determine whether it faces in or out....<br />
<br />
Little details like this could spell big time frustration at re-assembly time.<br />
<br />
Are the any detailed diagrams anywhere for a 1980 CX500 custom (square cup)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>vdotmatrix</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 21 Jun 2006 23:42:05 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7196,7196#msg-7196</guid>
            <title>CB900 to GL500 Caliper Conversion (5 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7196,7196#msg-7196</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I read about improving stopping power by swapping out the front caliper(s) from the CX/GL with those from a CB750/CB900.  <br />
Anybody know if I need the mounts too?  <br />
Has anyone tried it?  <br />
Does it improve braking?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>KBKeller</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 26 Jun 2006 12:16:58 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7186,7186#msg-7186</guid>
            <title>master brake cyclinder rebuilding tutorial (no replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7186,7186#msg-7186</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I have a 1980 CX500 custom (rectangular reservoir).<br />
<br />
I just bought the rebuilding kit, cleaned all the gunk out of the master cyclinder, have replacement parts for everything above the o-ring....now I want to reassemble this thing and go riding.....<br />
<br />
I can't find any documentation on rebuilding the rectangular 1980 model brake.<br />
<br />
Can anyone help?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>vdotmatrix</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 07 Jun 2006 12:51:59 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7177,7177#msg-7177</guid>
            <title>Brake Line Upgrade (no replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7177,7177#msg-7177</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I Built a stainless brake line for my GL500 (single disk) and have been riding with it for the last 2 weeks.  There is a HUGE difference in feel and stopping power.  A lot of the soft feel in the lever is gone when I squeeze it down hard.  <br />
I had changed the brake fluid previously to replacing the hose and ran it for a couple weeks as a baseline  measurement.  When I changed the hose out, I emptied and replaced the fluid again using fresh fluid from the same bottle. bled it and tested the upgrade.  <br />
This is an easy upgrade that IMHO imporves the performance of the front braking system. My next step will be to upgrade toa CB900 caliper to improve stoping power.<br />
<br />
In order to have a baseline and as part of my process before making changes I:<br />
<br />
Made sure front rotor was wihtin service limits using a micrometer<br />
Pulled and inspected brake pads, <br />
Roughed pads up with fresh 80 grit sand paper <br />
Cleaned pads with air and brake cleaner.<br />
lubed mounint holes and clips.<br />
re-assembled and installed then cleaned everything again with brake cleaner.<br />
Changed fluid and bled system<br />
cleaned entire assembly with brake cleaner again.<br />
Rode for 2 weeks<br />
<br />
Replaced line, added speed bleeder, bled system cleaned with brake cleaner.<br />
<br />
I used universal DOT approved hoses that use compression fittings. that I found on ebay.  There is a shop in NV (i think)that has hoses up in various lenghts most all the time.  Measure your existing line from the top of the swaged or crimped on fittings for an overall length.  If you have a dual front brake system measure all 3 hoses the same way.  If your a little long (1/2 to 1&quot;) when you finish assembling the hoses dont worry, it wont affect braking. To find the correct fittings, I compared the size shape and angle of each fitting (120 degree angle 10 mm banjos in my case) and searched for comparable items.  I used chrome plated brass fittings instead of stainless because of price.  Either material will hold up under the pressure on the brake lines.  With this project you MUST replace the crush washers! These are the brass washers that are between the bolts and fittings.  Usually 2 per bolt 1 each side of the fitting.<br />
<br />
Dual front brakes hae a T or Y splitter so you can either use compression fittings to attach each hose or use Banjos and Banjo bolts depending on the splitter Or you can use the OEM one.  If you reuse the original and it's rubber that will be your weak link in the system.   <br />
<br />
Pitfalls, None really,  Just dont over tighten the compression fittings or the banjo bolts.  <br />
<br />
REPLACE ALL THE BRAKE FLUID!!!  Drain the resivoir and caliper.  Use good brake fluid.  I went thru a whole bottle of DOT 5 synthetic to make sure I had the system filled with clean fluid. and I'll change it in about a year to keep the maximum performance of the system.  condensatin still gets in the system and I don't like corrosinin my calipers or master cylinder]]></description>
            <dc:creator>KBKeller</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 04 Jun 2006 07:30:39 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7094,7094#msg-7094</guid>
            <title>SS Brake Line (1 reply)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7094,7094#msg-7094</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I found a source for Goodridge ss brake lines and fittings.  I ordered all the parts neede to make a complete DOT approved line.  It cost around $43.00.  <br />
Will have all the parts next week and will assemble, install, test and, if anybody wants to know, report the status of the project.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>KBKeller</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 22 Apr 2006 07:50:37 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7089,7089#msg-7089</guid>
            <title>brakelines (1 reply)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7089,7089#msg-7089</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ In reply to Ken's question: Classiccycleparts (an eBay store) ran a sale on GL650 (twin) lines by Goodridge about 2 months ago, wanted $100 m.o.l. Here's the rap on brake lines as I know it. 1) brake lines require DOT certification, insurance hassles, etc. and stainless braid/PTFE brings a premium price. Go to a good hose supplier for a custom build and if they learn you want for brakes they will decline (not DOT approved, insurance, legal, etc.) As I used to work in this market, there are work arounds. e.g. I run oil pressure on my VW camper. No convenient way to get sender on engine block so must remote. required ss braided to handle temps, etc. while I'm in the shop occures to me could use some ss braid brakehose for my westy. No, they won't build them (see above) BUT if they are told they are building, say for instance, custom hydraulic application then no problem. I do intend to pursue this because 1) 100 bucks seems too hi, 2) can't find anyway, so I'm catching you and all up to where I've gotten. Advise if you want more tech talk as I've given the lay version but essentially a GOODYEAR #4 ss braided PTFE is going to operate at 3000psi (4:1 safety ratio, i.e. 12K to burst) which should get the job done.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>william harris</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 20 Apr 2006 12:41:04 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7088,7088#msg-7088</guid>
            <title>Stainless Steel Brake Lines (1 reply)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,7088,7088#msg-7088</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Has anyone know where to get a ss brake line for an 81 GL500 single front disk?  If you do, please post the manufacturer and if possible the part number.  If you have a suggestion on where to buy them in the USA please pass tha along too.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>KBKeller</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 20 Apr 2006 20:55:10 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,5365,5365#msg-5365</guid>
            <title>Front brake rotors (3 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,5365,5365#msg-5365</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I just bought a 1982 GL500I this weekend for a project bike. Both front rotors are pretty rough and well worn. I checked several places on line for replacements, and the asking prices caused severe jaw drop!<br />
Are there other rotors available from other makes or models that could be made to fit using the existing rotor hubs? <br />
TIA<br />
Bowhunter]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Bowhunter</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 14 Nov 2006 09:32:29 -0800</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,5246,5246#msg-5246</guid>
            <title>Front brake locks up (1 reply)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,5246,5246#msg-5246</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hello fellow silverwingers,<br />
                      <br />
            My front brake seems to think its an automatic parking brake system..  For some reason while parked the front brake magically applies its self to the point that the bike simply won't move till I get my handy little <br />
wrench and crack open the brake bleeder at the caliper then away we go.<br />
I ride the bike to work about a mile.  I have to crack the bleeder to go to work and when I get ready to head for home. Every day ! We bought the bike in Utah and rode it home to Oregon. Never gave us a bit of trouble.<br />
It sat here at home for about 3 weeks while getting title trans and insurance Ect.  After all that monkey bizz I decide to take it for a quick spin to town and .....HEY  it won't move..   One time since my first encounter with the problem it was free after an overnite period . However within a half mile the brake came on and stopped the bike.  I cracked the bleeder and finished the ride to work.   Anybody got an Idea as to how I mite cure <br />
my parking brake problem.. <br />
<br />
Thanks...<br />
Clancy..<br />
<br />
]]></description>
            <dc:creator>kibbleking</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 02 Oct 2005 05:07:42 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,5217,5217#msg-5217</guid>
            <title>Front brakes locked (3 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,5217,5217#msg-5217</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I just rebuilt the entire front brake system with all new seals. The brakes work too good. The pads do not release. Any suggestions.<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
Lee<br />
<br />
]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Offroader69</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 19 Oct 2005 20:31:57 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,5033,5033#msg-5033</guid>
            <title>front brake sticks (16 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,5033,5033#msg-5033</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ i have been fixing up an '81 gl500. i have aproblem with the front brakes sticking after riding for a couple of blocks. i replaced the piston seals in the caliper. i thought is was a sticking piston but now i  think it's something else. i'm not sure what it could be. could the master cylinder cause this problem? it seems that there is a sort of spring that is supose to push the pads back but it doesn't seem like it would push the pistons back. this problem only happens when i ride the bike. when it has been sitting for a while the brakes let go and seem to work fine. i hope someone can help me here. i would really like to go riding.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>ben</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 19 Feb 2006 11:53:11 -0800</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,4906,4906#msg-4906</guid>
            <title>silicon brake fluid (no replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,4906,4906#msg-4906</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ If silicon brake fluid (DOT 5) may not be compatible with the rubber in these brake systems, what is different about these that could be changed for compatibility? I've switched to DOT 5 in all my other vehicles with no problem over 10-15 years.<br />
<br />
Brian<br />
Chicagoland]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Brian FORD</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 24 Apr 2005 01:20:05 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,4863,4863#msg-4863</guid>
            <title>81cx500 ft brake sticks (3 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,4863,4863#msg-4863</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ hello from michigan,<br />
I picked up a 81 cx 500 custom for a few hundred,and got it to run very well.It is a clean bike and rides nice,but even after i cleaned the carbs it tends to drop the left cylinder now and then or wont excede 5000 on take off.also the ft brake seems to build pressure on the rotor after riding awhile,a quick turn of the bleeder to release pressure and its fine for awhile.any info i could recive would be greatly appriceated.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jeremy shaw</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 13 Apr 2005 09:53:58 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,4841,4841#msg-4841</guid>
            <title>Brake Cliper question... (4 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,4841,4841#msg-4841</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I know it sounds like I'm killing everyone with questions on the site, but bear with me. I live in South Korea and don't have the access to things as easily as you may (I.E. Clymer manuals). Until I get mine in the mail, I might be asking for a bit of advice.<br />
<br />
That being said, I wanted to ask about the brake calipers and if they can be put on either side. I currently only have one operating and it's on the right hand side. I've seen a few on Ebay, but they're the same side as the one I have working on my bike. Should I bid? My other caliper is beyond repair. Tried to fix it but nothin doin.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Rodney</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 06 Apr 2005 18:02:31 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,4674,4674#msg-4674</guid>
            <title>Back Breaks (no replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,4674,4674#msg-4674</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ ]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Jeff</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 04 Dec 2004 12:45:36 -0800</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,4543,4543#msg-4543</guid>
            <title>bleed screw problem (3 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,4543,4543#msg-4543</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Just rebuilt the calipers and replaced the lines and was ready to fill and bleed the system when I determined that neither of the bleed valves are sealing when fully tightened.<br />
I fit clear tubing over them and pushed air into them using a large syringe and I could see fluid and air bubbling out around the threads even after they were fully tightened.  I purchased new OEM bleed screws and had the same problem.  I used some white plastic plumbers tape around the threads and seem to have a seal but don't really trust my life on it. <br />
<br />
Do I need to purchase another set of calipers on ebay and try again?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>steve in seattle</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 13 Oct 2004 09:03:09 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,4542,4542#msg-4542</guid>
            <title>bleed screw problem (no replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,4542,4542#msg-4542</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Just rebuilt the calipers and replaced the lines and was ready to fill and bleed the system when I determined that neither of the bleed valves are sealing when fully tightened.<br />
I fit clear tubing over them and pushed air into them using a large syringe and I could see fluid and air bubbling out around the threads even after they were fully tightened.  I purchased new OEM bleed screws and had the same problem.  I used some white plastic plumbers tape around the threads and seem to have a seal but don't really trust my life on it. <br />
<br />
Do I need to purchase another set of calipers on ebay and try again?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>steve in seattle</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 06 Oct 2004 19:41:27 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,4516,4516#msg-4516</guid>
            <title>replacing brake line banjos (2 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?33,4516,4516#msg-4516</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I recently purchased aftermarket brake lines and banjos for the front dual disc on an 82 gl500I.  They are made by Goodridge and the thickness of the banjos is about 1.8mm less than that of the originals.  I am reusing the same bolts however and I run out of threads before securing a tight fit to the calipers as well as the threaded channel connecting the two lines to the master cylinder line. <br />
I am considering using thicker crush washers to make up the difference, but can't seem to find the proper inner diameter copper type.  So should I try to file the inner part of some thick automotive copper ones I have or just run up to the hardware store and use brass or bronze washers?  The last option would be using two of the thin copper washers next to each other. <br />
Any suggestions would be appreciated, just want to install it right the FIRST time.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>steve in seattle</dc:creator>
            <category>Braking System</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 06 Oct 2004 19:31:42 -0700</pubDate>
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