For technical requests regarding the engine lubrication system and grease points http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/list.php?31 Sat, 04 Sep 2010 21:18:29 -0700 Phorum 5.2.8 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,7946,7946#msg-7946 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,7946,7946#msg-7946
The problem is, the breather bolt has been discontinued by Honda and I have had no luck in fiding a replacement.

How important is the breather bolt and is there anything else I can put in there to stop the leak?]]> lostatsea85 Lubrication Thu, 20 Mar 2008 03:53:06 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,7941,7941#msg-7941 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,7941,7941#msg-7941 Some people's definition of servicing things leaves a lot to be desired so if you aren't absolutely sure you should do a thorough job at least the first time. Otherwise, just changing the fluid would be like changing the engine's oil without changing the filter - all the stuff that doesn't come out the drain is in there to contaminate the new oil you put in.

My normal procedure for servicing forks is:

1) Remove the forks from the bike one side at a time and then repeat the rest of the steps for each leg. I usually spread a section of newspaper (several sheets thick) on the clean workbench to make sure no foreign material gets into the working parts.

2) Remove the drain screw and place the bottom of the fork into a container to drain. If the fork has a port in it's cap for air you can use low pressure air to force the fluid out faster. I use a bicycle pump for this. When all of the fluid that will come out has, replace the drain screw finger tight.

3) Loosen the allen bolt in the bottom of the slider but don't remove it yet - leave it finger tight. This must be done before the cap is removed so that the spring pushes against the part that the bolt is screwed into and keeps it from moving. I have on occasion resorted to a couple of sharp blows to the allen wrench to get the bolt started and once or twice I have needed to use an impact driver (the kind you hit with a hammer).

4) Remove the cap. Caution - it is under pressure from the spring. If possible, place a large rag over the cap while you remove it so that any parts that fly out will be caught in the rag.

I clamp the fork tube in a wooden jawed vise for this (my Dad was a carpenter), but any soft jawed vise or any vise with wood placed between the jaws & the fork will do. You could even make wooden jaw covers so that you don't have to juggle the wood & the fork while turning the handle.
For disassembly you could even clamp the fork back into the bike temporarily, but this can be awkward with the fairing in place.

Remove the spring(s) and lay them on the newspaper in order. I always lay them out with the top of the fork on the right so that I remember which order they have to go back in. It really doesn't matter which side you put the parts from the top on as long as you are consistent.

5) Pour an ounce or so of mineral spirits into the top of the fork and pump it vogorously several times to force it through the valves and clean them. remove the drain screws and let the spirits drain out.

A word about mineral spirits: Mineral spirits is the generic name for a family of petroleum distilate solvents that includes ExxonMobil (Imperial oil)'s brand called Varsol. All of the standard warnings for use of flamable solvents apply - don't smoke, no open flames, well ventilated area. I recommend generic mineral spirits, usually marked "Paint Thinner". Get the low odour kind if you can. If you buy Varsol brand you will pay about 25% more than you would pay for the generic product bought from the same store and the only difference will be the ammount of money in your pocket.

6) Disassemble the fork according to the instructions in your shop manual. Lay out all of the parts the same way you laid out the spring(s).

7) To get all of the sediment out of the bottoms of the sliders wrap a small rag around a piece of rod and swab it out. Shine a light down the tube and if you see any more dirt swab it out again. This is the stuff you couldn't get by just draining the oil.

8) Re-assemble the fork according to the instructions in your shop manual, but don't install the cap & spring(s) yet. Wipe as much of the old oil as possible off of each part before you install it. I have never used Loctite when assembling forks and have never had any problems because of it.

If you are installing new seals, use a piece of plastic drain pipe about a foot long that is a loose fit over the stanchion but will fit inside the top of the slider as a slide hammer to drive the new seal in.

9) Clamp the fork in the vise again. Pour in the appropriate amount of oil of your choice. I use a 50/50 mix of ATF and motor oil - 10W40 for summer use and 5W30 for the sidecar machine that I drive to work all winter.
I used to recommend measuring the fluid with a graduated bottle that baby juice comes in, but they never hold enough and you have to make sure you add up what you poured correctly. The last time I bought a clear plastic 300mL measuring cup from a $1 store - it's markings are more accurate and it's spout makes pouring much easier.

10) Re-install the spring(s) & cap. If you are installing some form of added spring preloaders, they should go on the top. Many have simply added an equal length of pipe above the springs with good results. I prefer to add springs. I use valve springs salvaged from an engine I scrapped years ago. If you don't have something like that, ask a friendly auto mechanic or see your local bike wrecker. Some small engine valve springs might work too.

I made a special tool for starting the caps on Honda forks with air fittings. It is sort of a big wooden wrench - a piece of wood a foot or so long and a couple of inches wide (size not critical) with a couple of smaller blocks nailed onto it crosswise near the centre and just far enough apart for the cap to fit between.

To use it, I clamp the upper fork tube into the wooden jawed vise, then bear down on the ends of the tool to compress the spring while turning the tool (& cap) counter clockwise until I feel the ends of the threads pass each other, at which point I start turning clockwise until the cap is threaded in a couple of turns, then finish with a regular wrench.]]> Sidecar Bob Lubrication Fri, 07 Mar 2008 17:51:50 -0800 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,7931,7931#msg-7931 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,7931,7931#msg-7931 pauleybird2000 Lubrication Fri, 07 Mar 2008 17:54:03 -0800 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,7898,7898#msg-7898 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,7898,7898#msg-7898 bubbie Lubrication Tue, 15 Jan 2008 20:58:29 -0800 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,7719,7719#msg-7719 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,7719,7719#msg-7719 fredzep Lubrication Fri, 06 Jul 2007 19:47:37 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,7276,7276#msg-7276 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,7276,7276#msg-7276 Is there a cross reference for this part from readily avilable automobile sender units?:S
Any help would be appreciated.:D]]> mrkevt Lubrication Sat, 08 Jul 2006 12:11:33 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,7158,7158#msg-7158 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,7158,7158#msg-7158 fredzep Lubrication Sun, 21 May 2006 12:29:54 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,7155,7155#msg-7155 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,7155,7155#msg-7155 fredzep Lubrication Sun, 21 May 2006 12:32:54 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,5414,5414#msg-5414 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,5414,5414#msg-5414
]]> jmalone Lubrication Mon, 05 Dec 2005 12:48:20 -0800 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,5129,5129#msg-5129 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,5129,5129#msg-5129
PS, Gear oil change/ fork oil change/ inspection and I'll be on the road.....finally]]> Tim D Lubrication Fri, 20 Jan 2006 13:19:57 -0800 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,5072,5072#msg-5072 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,5072,5072#msg-5072 BACK IN THE SADDLE Lubrication Wed, 06 Jul 2005 17:02:42 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,4817,4817#msg-4817 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,4817,4817#msg-4817
Does anyone have experience in repairing a small screen hole such as this? It is not a large hole, very small. I have some very fine mesh copper screen laying around. might it be possible to solder this on over the broken screen, or would this be a bad solution?

Thanks for your help!

Sam]]> Sam H. Lubrication Sat, 19 Mar 2005 03:26:29 -0800 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,4711,4711#msg-4711 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?31,4711,4711#msg-4711 Mike in NE Lubrication Tue, 04 Mar 2008 13:17:18 -0800