For technical requests regarding the coolant system http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/list.php?30 Sat, 04 Sep 2010 21:03:03 -0700 Phorum 5.2.8 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,8300,8300#msg-8300 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,8300,8300#msg-8300 It has always run cool, but on the verge of overheating the last 2 times out (needle right at the beginning of the red). I'm going to replace the thermostat this weekend, but was wondering if there was a good way to verify an impeller failure in the water pump before I pull that apart (if that is the problem). Thanks for the help! Adrian]]> Adrian Coolant System Mon, 19 Apr 2010 08:35:16 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,8255,8255#msg-8255 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,8255,8255#msg-8255 tooterweber Coolant System Sat, 20 Feb 2010 19:31:07 -0800 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,8228,8228#msg-8228 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,8228,8228#msg-8228 mjhorsley Coolant System Sun, 27 Sep 2009 21:11:24 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,8020,8020#msg-8020 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,8020,8020#msg-8020 KBKeller Coolant System Mon, 23 Jun 2008 17:49:17 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,8017,8017#msg-8017 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,8017,8017#msg-8017 New to the forum. Have a 83 GL650I that runs hot during low speed travel or, particularly 2 up riding a slow speeds, 2nd, 3rd gear 20mph.

Photos a photobucket show the temp gauge.
Pic 1
[s296.photobucket.com]

Pic 2
[s296.photobucket.com]

Pic 1 is a little low of what it looks like when cruising at 55-65 one up.

Pic 2 is just below where the fan kicks in and the temp drops. The needle never reaches the "RED" zone but is close.

I have just flushed the radiator and emptied the overflow bottle (used a vacuum pump/brake bleeder). And replace all coolant with new.

QUESTION:
Is this too hot! Whats 'normal'.

Thanks
Jim]]> jamby Coolant System Mon, 23 Jun 2008 17:42:51 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,7737,7737#msg-7737 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,7737,7737#msg-7737
I need to replace the mechanical seal, problem is I do not have the thrust washer and the one I ordered is on back order, does anyone know of a replacement?

Thanks

Norseman]]> norseman Coolant System Sun, 01 Jul 2007 05:37:03 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,7680,7680#msg-7680 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,7680,7680#msg-7680
Upon being asked to elaborate, he said Silverwings are notoriously prone to mechanical difficulties and general unreliability (which, he added, is why there are not many on the road), not the least of which was a certain seal that could/would leak. The seal of which he spoke is located behind the carburators, and its "almost-certain failure" means that coolant seeps out and also mixes with the oil. The only cure, he said, is pulling and dismantling the engine. This is, he cautioned, terribly expensive.

Is this anyone's experience? Particularly the Silverwing's being "notoriously prone to mechanical difficulties and general unreliability." This seems in opposition to everything I have heard about Silverwings (which is why I am buying one. Yes, I am buying it sight unseen, but from a man who seems to be scrupulously honest). I am seeking a dependale, comfortable, reasonably economical commuter bike. Is this not what a Silverwing is?

This mechanic also bashed Goldwings, so he may simply be biased against Honda bikes. Anyway, just thought I'd ask.

Yes, I am still picking up the SW, and I will report back.

Thanks to all, and I really enjoy this web site.]]> RevRoy Coolant System Sun, 29 Apr 2007 19:03:48 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,7653,7653#msg-7653 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,7653,7653#msg-7653
Regular coolant is only good for a couple of years, and changing it is almost as important as changing the oil. Even the premium silicate free coolant that we should be using in our bikes is only good for 5 years. If your cooling system hasn't been properly serviced in the last couple of years, this would be a good time to do it. You should be changing the hoses, rad cap and thermostat too. If you don't it's like changing the oil without the filter - you are just wasting your time.
I assume you will be consulting a shop manual (Haynes, Clymer, Honda, or better yet 2 of them - if you don't follow what it says in one, you probably will follow the other.)

Take the old parts to your local AUTO parts dealer - he can supply them for much less than your Honda motorcycle dealer. Partsfish wants $21.69US for the thermoststat - I paid $6.99Cdn. Depending on your model and year the hoses may be short pieces of bulk hose, or (if sharp bends are required) may be able to be cut from an in stock heater hose. Don't forget new clamps - stainless ones aren't too expensive and you will be able to undo them without stripping something when you do it again in 2 years.
The thermostat is the same one used in late '70s Civics (I have been using them in GoldWings for years)
Rad cap is a standard automotive 13psi. The same one that an overwhelming majority of cars & trucks use.
If you haven't already, you should replace the 0-rings at the ends of all the tubes &c in the cooling system. There are 5 rings, all the same size for the tubes ($1.09US ea. at Partsfish), and 2 for where the "joints" bolt to the engine ($1.39). They should have a perfectly round cross section - not oval or square. I paid less than $0.50Cdn. each as auto/plumbing parts. There is also an o-ring in the thermostat housing (mine came out in pieces) that should be changed.

If you have a compressor, place the end of the hose into the mouth of the overflow tank and hold your hand around it to seal it a bit (while the hose that goes to the rad is disconnected), and the coolant in it will come out of the hose. I don't know of any other way to empty it other than removing the tank and dumping it.

It's easier to change the hoses if you remove the rad. When you have it off, remove and throw out the thermostat, re-assemble the 'stat housing and flush the engine with a garden hose in the upper rad hose. Flush the rad too, and hose it off while you're at it. You wouldn't believe how much debris you can get out of the rad by spraying with a garden hose from the engine side. All those bugs &c that went in the front at highway speed and didn't come out the back for years are impeding the efficiency of your cooling system.

The Honda manual shows drain screws on the front of the cylinders near the bottom. (These are behind the rad.) They allow you to drain 0.4 litres (each) of old coolant that would otherwise be left in the engine. (Do this after you flush it.)

If your bike has a mechanical fan (as opposed to an electrical fan) check it while you have the rad off. Several people have reported having their fans come apart while riding and destroy the rad. Better yet, replace it - it costs about 10% of what a rad costs, and then you will be sure. It is 20+ years old, after all.
Don't try to use your front axle as a fan puller - the tapered end doesn't let it thread in far enough, and you have a good chance of stripping the threads inside the fan hub. Besides, taking the axle out is too much work. I use an old VW beetle wheel lug bolt that was in my odd bolts bin to remove the fan. It works perfectly - the end is flat, so it threads in fully and pushes properly against the camshaft, but any 14mm x 1.5 thread bolt will do.

A word about coolants: You may have heard that you should use a coolant that is silicate free. The more I learn the less I tend to believe this. No-one has been able to find any mention of this in any Honda manual. It does, apparently, appear on the label of Honda coolant, but there is no evidence that it wasn't put there by someone in marketing (as opposed to engineering). Some Silicate free coolants are not compatible with "yellow metals" (like the brass in our rads) and could potentially do a lot of harm. Some long life (silicate free) coolants will, over time, dissolve the solder used to hold brass radiators together. And finally, Joe in Bendigo (Australia) has put over 210,000 Km on his CX500EC with regular bargain proced ethylene glycol coolant and hasn't needed to change the mechanical seal yet. I don't think I will worry about silicates anymore.


Wow - that sounds like a lot, but it's really no harder to do than an oil change. And the next time it will be a lot easier.]]> Sidecar Bob Coolant System Sat, 22 Mar 2008 11:56:23 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,7550,7550#msg-7550 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,7550,7550#msg-7550

2. do I really have to take out the engine to get to the waterpump?]]> Z-man Coolant System Thu, 30 Nov 2006 01:31:44 -0800 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,7417,7417#msg-7417 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,7417,7417#msg-7417 It might be green because I flushed the radiatior but not the whole cooling system, so the coolants might have mixed a bit.
I guess my question is do you guys think the coolant type suddenly caused it to leak (maybe I should have stuck with green?) or do you think it was just its time?
(Minnesota bought and owned with 24,000 miles)
Safe riding,
Dylan]]> Dtimm612 Coolant System Fri, 25 Aug 2006 06:37:28 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,7287,7287#msg-7287 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,7287,7287#msg-7287 SooOntario Coolant System Mon, 10 Jul 2006 19:36:58 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,7062,7062#msg-7062 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,7062,7062#msg-7062 Also is there an on line parts catalogue that I can access?
Thanks in advance.
R]]> Seldom Home Coolant System Sun, 23 Apr 2006 12:59:42 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,5421,5421#msg-5421 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,5421,5421#msg-5421
It heat exchanges better, and has a higher boiling point that does not require the 13lb pressure that our Hondas run. This might be a good way to prevent cooling system leaks.

[www.evanscooling.com]

Miles]]> bowman91 Coolant System Wed, 07 Dec 2005 16:33:14 -0800 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,5354,5354#msg-5354 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,5354,5354#msg-5354
And now, after a few days of riding, I checked my oil and there is coolant in it (but no oil in my coolant).

However nothing appears to be weeping from anywhere in the water pump area. This leads me to look at one of the head gaskets as the most likely cause... but I don't get any steam in my exhaust when I start. So I don't know. I'll have to check.

However, what will have happened to the poor seal with all those years of bad antifreeze? Should I check it anyways?

What does coolant do to oil? Will it have damaged the bike over the two days that it has most likely been in there? I'm not riding until I fix it, but should I drain the oil and coolant quickly?]]> Alex Coolant System Thu, 23 Feb 2006 14:19:11 -0800 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,5330,5330#msg-5330 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,5330,5330#msg-5330 bowman91 Coolant System Sat, 15 Oct 2005 22:59:08 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,5310,5310#msg-5310 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,5310,5310#msg-5310 bowman91 Coolant System Sat, 08 Oct 2005 15:15:59 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,5239,5239#msg-5239 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,5239,5239#msg-5239 BACK IN THE SADDLE Coolant System Wed, 05 Oct 2005 18:31:59 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,5209,5209#msg-5209 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,5209,5209#msg-5209 Rod Coolant System Tue, 08 Apr 2008 16:38:42 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,5203,5203#msg-5203 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,5203,5203#msg-5203 www.aegeansoft.com]


Regular coolant is only good for a couple of years, and changing it is almost as important as changing the oil. Even the premium silicate free coolant that we should be using in our bikes is only good for 5 years. If your cooling system hasn't been properly serviced in the last couple of years, this would be a good time to do it. You should be changing the hoses, rad cap and thermostat too. If you don't it's like changing the oil without the filter - you are just wasting your time.
I assume you will be consulting a shop manual (Haynes, Clymer, Honda, or better yet 2 of them - if you don't follow what it says in one, you probably will follow the other.)

Take the old parts to your local AUTO parts dealer - he can supply them for much less than your Honda motorcycle dealer. Partsfish wants $21.69US for the thermoststat - I paid $6.99Cdn. Depending on your model and year the hoses may be short pieces of bulk hose, or (if sharp bends are required) may be able to be cut from an in stock heater hose. Don't forget new clamps - stainless ones aren't too expensive and you will be able to undo them without stripping something when you do it again in 2 years.
The thermostat is the same one used in late '70s Civics (I have been using them in GoldWings for years)
Rad cap is a standard automotive 13psi. The same one the 318c.i.d. V8 in my wife's old Dodge van used!
If you haven't already, you should replace the 0-rings at the ends of all the tubes &c in the cooling system. There are 5 rings, all the same size for the tubes ($1.09US ea. at Partsfish), and 2 for where the "joints" bolt to the engine ($1.39). They should have a perfectly round cross section - not oval or square. I paid less than $0.50Cdn. each as auto/plumbing parts. There is also an o-ring in the thermostat housing (mine came out in pieces) that should be changed.

If you have a compressor, place the end of the hose into the mouth of the overflow tank and hold your hand around it to seal it a bit (while the hose that goes to the rad is disconnected), and the coolant in it will come out of the hose. I don't know of any other way to empty it other than removing the tank and dumping it.

It's easier to change the hoses if you remove the rad. When you have it off, remove and throw out the thermostat, re-assemble the 'stat housing and flush the engine with a garden hose in the upper rad hose. Flush the rad too, and hose it off while you're at it. You wouldn't believe how much debris you can get out of the rad by spraying with a garden hose from the engine side. All those bugs &c that went in the front at highway speed and didn't come out the back for years are impeding the efficiency of your cooling system.

The Honda manual shows drain screws on the front of the cylinders near the bottom. (These are behind the rad.) They allow you to drain 0.4 litres (each) of old coolant that would otherwise be left in the engine. (Do this after you flush it.)

NOTE: If you are changing to silicate free coolant, you MUST flush your cooling system thoroughly and drain the cylinders - silicate free coolant will mix with compatible with regular (usually green) coolant, but it will loose it's extended life.

If your bike has a mechanical fan (as opposed to an electrical fan) check it while you have the rad off. Several people have reported having their fans come apart while riding and destroy the rad. Better yet, replace it - it costs about 10% of what a rad costs, and then you will be sure. It is 20 years old, after all.
Don't try to use your front axle as a fan puller - the tapered end doesn't let it thread in far enough, and you will probably strip something. Besides, taking the axle out is too much work. I use an old VW beetle wheel lug bolt that was in my odd bolts bin to remove the fan. It works perfectly - the end is flat, so it threads in fully and pushes properly against the camshaft, but any 14mm x 1.5 thread bolt will do.

A word about coolants: You should use a coolant that is clearly marked silicate free. It should also be approved for use with "yellow metals" (like the brass in our rads).
There are many on the market that are fine, but do not under any circumstances use Prestone Long Life. Captain Jerry e-mailed them and they told him that their product is NOT COMPATIBLE WITH YELLOW METALS. I am sure is Prestone Long Life is a fine product, but it just isn't suitable for use in our bikes.
I use Motomaster Long Life. I contacted Canadian Tire's tech support and they told me that it is specifically approved for use with yellow metals.

Wow - that sounds like a lot, but it's really no harder to do than an oil change. And the next time it will be a lot easier.]]> Sidecar Bob Coolant System Fri, 25 Aug 2006 07:20:27 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,5194,5194#msg-5194 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,5194,5194#msg-5194 JohnG Coolant System Sun, 02 Oct 2005 05:21:47 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,5172,5172#msg-5172 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,5172,5172#msg-5172 Now that I have some room I decided to tackle the repair myself. I could not belive that the parts should have failed. While i don't have room to pull the engine I did remove the tank, carbs etc. I took the front conver off of the water punp and pulled the impeller. All of the parts look brand new and none appear to have failed. The ceramic washer that is seated behind the impeller in the rubber bushing also looks fine (no scoring etc). I have new parts on order. I can see nothing wrong with the mechanical seal. I did notice that the cap nut on the end of the impeller was replaced with a normal nut and required no effort to loosen?? Is it possible that this nut was loose enough to allow coolant by the copper washer and back along the cam shaft? I am going to probably replace all of the parts I can since I have gone this far. Anyone have any better ideas. I realize I am assuming the mechanical seal is good. It sure looks like it. Also the most recent leak is very slow unlike last years.]]> Rick Coolant System Tue, 26 Jul 2005 09:48:03 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,5130,5130#msg-5130 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,5130,5130#msg-5130 How do I remove the old water pump seal? This is a new bike for me and it seems like you folks are the ones who know. I'll be postin a lot in the near future I'm sure! (Need help)
Dean in Ct.]]> Dean in Ct. Coolant System Sun, 03 Jul 2005 05:59:10 -0700 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,4872,4872#msg-4872 http://www.aegeansoft.com/silverwing/phorum/read.php?30,4872,4872#msg-4872 gary carl Coolant System Fri, 25 Aug 2006 05:55:14 -0700